Simply Fishing: 2016

Sunday, November 13, 2016

Amur Carp

Amur Carp, (or grass carp), were introduced into the United States in the early 1960s as a way to control aquatic vegetation in ponds, lakes, and streams. Because of their very specific reproductive needs they don't pose a threat of becoming over abundant in most waters, unlike their other Asian Carp cousins. They can grow up to 90 lbs, but because of their primarily herbivorous diet, can be difficult to catch. Through experimentation, however, I've come up with a dough bait that they seem to love. I often catch up to two dozen in a day at Lake Cahuilla near Palm Springs where I live. (message me on Simply Fishing with Michael for the recipe)

Thursday, September 1, 2016

"Mudding"

On a recent trip to Santa Fe, New Mexico, I stopped by Cochiti Lake to see what I could see. I came across a cove where large carp were "mudding" fairly close to shore. "Mudding" is when carp are feeding on the bottom kicking up clouds of mud as they swim along.With their noses down and clouds of mud surrounding them, they are not easily spooked and are fairly easy to catch. All you have to do is cast a fly right in their path and wait for them to swim along and suck it up. You'll usually have just a second to set the hook before they spit it out, but adding a little Pro-Cure crayfish scent, or even anise extract to your fly will make them hold on a little longer. Two of the carp I caught were over 28" long. Good fun!

Dropshotting Nymphs: A technique for all seasons.

The "Dropshotting Nymphs" technique is effective on most freshwater species, doesn't require expensive gear, and even if you've never fished before in your life, you will catch fish using this method.

Firstly, you will need light fishing line. I use 2-4 lb. test Fluorocarbon or Monofilament line. If the water isn't too clear, I like to use a high visability line so that you can detect even the lightest of bites.

Next, you will need some nymphs, (artificial flies made to look like the larval stage of aquatic insects). There are nymphs of some sort swimming around in every lake, pond, river, and stream in America. You've probably seen them hatch on the water's surface and fly away. If you want to get an idea of the kind of nymphs that are in your favorite fishing hole, just go to the shoreline and flip over some stones that are in shallow water. Or, grab a handful of moss or weeds from the water and toss them on the bank. I'm sure you'll find something wriggling around in the muck.

Finally, you will need a dropshot sinker, (preferrably skinny and tungsten), from 1/16 to 1/4 oz. Tie the flies at least 10 inches apart, (up to 2'), using a surgeon's loop knot. There are stronger loop knots, but the surgeon's loop is simple and fast. Your dropshot sinker will be at the bottom. (See photo). In California, you can't have more than three flies on a line in freshwater.

Now, all you have to do is cast out, let your rig sink to the bottom, and retrieve slowly--VERY slowly. The bite can be as light as a "tick" in your line, or just a slight bend in your rod tip. Most people don't even recognize these as bites. In either case, if you just crank a little faster, the hook will set itself. Giving a light shake to your rod tip as you reel in, will impart some action to your nymphs.

From a dock or boat you can fish vertically. Just drop your rig to the bottom, and reel straight up SLOWLY. Or, just lift your rod tip slowly and drop back down. If the fish are suspended, use your lightest sinker, cast out, let your rig sink to where the fish are, then retrieve just fast enough to keep your nymphs at the desired depth.

This technique works all year round. You just need to find what depth fish are.

Texas Rigging Nightcrawlers

This is another technique that works well all year round, but is especially effective during the pre-spawn bite when the bass are in shallower water staging around points and ledges near the shallows where they will eventually spawn.

You will need at least 6lb. test, (hi-viz line if water clarity allows). Keeping in mind that with much heavier line, you won't be able to cast a live worm very far. You will need a 1/16 to 3/16 worm sinker, preferrably tungsten, but not necessarily. I like to use a #8 Gamakatsu baitholder hook. And, lastly, you will need a LARGE nightcrawler.

Thread your line through the worm sinker and tie on your bait hook. I use a uni-knot because it is pretty strong, but more importantly, it's simple and fast. And I am usually very anxious to start fishing. Run the point of the hook through the nose of your worm and back out about 1/4 inch down the worm. Pull the hook out until the eye is buried in the worm, then bury the point of the hook back into the worm (See photo). This will keep your worm relatively weedless. It is VERY important to keep your worm straight.

Now, all you have to do is cast your worm out, let it sink to the bottom, and hop it slowly off the bottom back toward you. Lift your rod tip to hop the worm and when you drop your rod tip back down, make sure there is plenty of slack in the line. You want the worm to freefall straight down, and when a bass sucks it in, you don't want him to feel tension in the line. Work your worm pretty slowly during this time of year as the bass are trying to store up energy for the spawn when they don't eat. So, they won't want to use up more energy chasing a bait then they will get by eating that bait. In other words, big baits--go slow.

When you see your line start to move out, (remember to keep your line slack after each lift), don't set the hook right away. Point your rod forward, and just before the line straightens out completely, set the hook. Be sure to keep your drag set light with this light of line, (you can always palm the spool to pressure the fish), and GOOD LUCK!!!

Simply Fishing

Saltwater Fishing

Sunday, November 13, 2016

Amur Carp

Thursday, September 1, 2016

"Mudding"

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