Simply Fishing: Shad

Monday, October 14, 2013

Shad

Just in case you didn't know, Fall may be your best bet to catch big fish. One of the reasons for this is that shad will migrate to shallow water to spawn. Bass, stripers, trout, crappie, catfish, even large redear and bluegill will eat shad. The shad will usually lay their eggs on wood, so you can expect them to congregate near docks, logs, submerged trees, etc. The threadfin shad is the most common baitfish in California reservoirs. Shad imitation lures, of course, will work well at this time, (swimbaits, jerkbaits), and of course, nothing is more exciting than seeing a big bass smash a topwater lure on a calm lake. I love the Lucky Craft Waketail and Sammy lures for topwater fishing. Another technique that I love, especially if I want to make sure a friend catches fish, is flylining live shad. If you don't have a fluorocarbon shad net, (who does?), it's pretty easy to snag shad. Just tie on a couple of small, thin, treble hooks above a skinny dropshot sinker, with light fluorocarbon line, and jig it through the school of baitfish. If your hook is too heavy, you will kill the shad and it will not be an effective bait. An injured shad gives off a distress signal which is like ringing a dinner bell for gamefish. A dead fish does nothing unless you work it like a soft jerkbait. Hook the shad through the bottom lip and up through the nose on a #6 mosquito hook, or a #8 Gamakatsu baitholder hook. The thinner the hook the better for keeping your bait alive, but a large fish may bend or break a thin hook. Yesterday, I hooked about a 5 lb. fish that broke a fine fly hook on which I had impaled a large minnow. It's important to use 8# test or lighter to cast a shad or minnow with no weight. If you see boils, cast past them and reel your bait into the strike zone, (so you don't spook the fish), Make sure there is plenty of slack in your line. When your line starts to move out, don't set the hook right away. Wait until your line is almost straightened out before you set the hook, this will give the fish time to take the bait all the way into his mouth. If you don't get bit right away, lift your rod tip quickly, then let your bait freefall. This will often get their attention. Retie your hook frequently as that knot will be the most likely place where your line will break. Don't know where the shad are? Look for grebes. If there are shad in your lake, the grebes will know where they are. Also, be sure to wear polarized sunglasses. They will allow you to see the schools of shad as well as the predator that eats them. Good luck, and fish on!

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Dropshotting Nymphs: A technique for all seasons.

The "Dropshotting Nymphs" technique is effective on most freshwater species, doesn't require expensive gear, and even if you've never fished before in your life, you will catch fish using this method.

Firstly, you will need light fishing line. I use 2-4 lb. test Fluorocarbon or Monofilament line. If the water isn't too clear, I like to use a high visability line so that you can detect even the lightest of bites.

Next, you will need some nymphs, (artificial flies made to look like the larval stage of aquatic insects). There are nymphs of some sort swimming around in every lake, pond, river, and stream in America. You've probably seen them hatch on the water's surface and fly away. If you want to get an idea of the kind of nymphs that are in your favorite fishing hole, just go to the shoreline and flip over some stones that are in shallow water. Or, grab a handful of moss or weeds from the water and toss them on the bank. I'm sure you'll find something wriggling around in the muck.

Finally, you will need a dropshot sinker, (preferrably skinny and tungsten), from 1/16 to 1/4 oz. Tie the flies at least 10 inches apart, (up to 2'), using a surgeon's loop knot. There are stronger loop knots, but the surgeon's loop is simple and fast. Your dropshot sinker will be at the bottom. (See photo). In California, you can't have more than three flies on a line in freshwater.

Now, all you have to do is cast out, let your rig sink to the bottom, and retrieve slowly--VERY slowly. The bite can be as light as a "tick" in your line, or just a slight bend in your rod tip. Most people don't even recognize these as bites. In either case, if you just crank a little faster, the hook will set itself. Giving a light shake to your rod tip as you reel in, will impart some action to your nymphs.

From a dock or boat you can fish vertically. Just drop your rig to the bottom, and reel straight up SLOWLY. Or, just lift your rod tip slowly and drop back down. If the fish are suspended, use your lightest sinker, cast out, let your rig sink to where the fish are, then retrieve just fast enough to keep your nymphs at the desired depth.

This technique works all year round. You just need to find what depth fish are.

Texas Rigging Nightcrawlers

This is another technique that works well all year round, but is especially effective during the pre-spawn bite when the bass are in shallower water staging around points and ledges near the shallows where they will eventually spawn.

You will need at least 6lb. test, (hi-viz line if water clarity allows). Keeping in mind that with much heavier line, you won't be able to cast a live worm very far. You will need a 1/16 to 3/16 worm sinker, preferrably tungsten, but not necessarily. I like to use a #8 Gamakatsu baitholder hook. And, lastly, you will need a LARGE nightcrawler.

Thread your line through the worm sinker and tie on your bait hook. I use a uni-knot because it is pretty strong, but more importantly, it's simple and fast. And I am usually very anxious to start fishing. Run the point of the hook through the nose of your worm and back out about 1/4 inch down the worm. Pull the hook out until the eye is buried in the worm, then bury the point of the hook back into the worm (See photo). This will keep your worm relatively weedless. It is VERY important to keep your worm straight.

Now, all you have to do is cast your worm out, let it sink to the bottom, and hop it slowly off the bottom back toward you. Lift your rod tip to hop the worm and when you drop your rod tip back down, make sure there is plenty of slack in the line. You want the worm to freefall straight down, and when a bass sucks it in, you don't want him to feel tension in the line. Work your worm pretty slowly during this time of year as the bass are trying to store up energy for the spawn when they don't eat. So, they won't want to use up more energy chasing a bait then they will get by eating that bait. In other words, big baits--go slow.

When you see your line start to move out, (remember to keep your line slack after each lift), don't set the hook right away. Point your rod forward, and just before the line straightens out completely, set the hook. Be sure to keep your drag set light with this light of line, (you can always palm the spool to pressure the fish), and GOOD LUCK!!!

Simply Fishing

Saltwater Fishing

Monday, October 14, 2013

Shad

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